I've had a lot of fun the past few weeks making kiss clasps! In the past, I have made the glue-in type, which are equally as sweet, but can be challenging. The sew-in kiss clasp seems a bit easier to tackle and I have a few tips I would like to share.
There are two patterns that I have used to make my kiss clasps. One is the fabulous pattern from Kjerste at Rosebud + Penny. The Vintage Mod Coin Purse .
And the other you can find at Emmalinebags.com. Just search Puffy Coin Purses and you will find a free pattern to "purchase".
I found that I had better results with the Vintage Mod Coin Purse by Rosebud + Penny. The Vintage Mod Coin Purse and the Puffy Coin Purse are slightly different in appearance. The Puffy purse is, as it's name suggests, puffier! The construction in the two patterns is similar, but the Puffy purse calls for Shape Flex stabilizer and the Vintage Mod Coin purse does not. My tips in this blog post are for the Vintage Mod Purse, but I think they could be helpful with any kiss clasp pattern.
To begin, you will cut two exterior pieces for the center and two exterior side pieces. Don't worry too much about the bias when fussy cutting the center section of your purse. The exterior has a fusible fleece fused to the wrong side, so there is not an issue with controlling the bias.
When sewing the exterior and lining pieces, remember to use a SCANT quarter inch. Once I finished piecing the exterior and lining pieces together, I found using a small ham to press everything was very helpful. You could always roll up a towel if you do not have a pressing ham.
Before basting the purse to the frame, I marked the center with a compass pin and found the center of the frame. On our frames the center is the 12th hole from either side. I basted the center first and then basted the sides. Only do one half of the frame at a time (front of frame and back side of frame). When basting, you do not need to baste through the holes. Just baste around the frame to secure it while you stitch. It doesn't need to look pretty :)
Now you are ready to stitch! Kjerste recommends Guterman monofilament (invisible) thread. I have also used Valdani Perle Cotton size 8 to stitch the purse to the frame. The Fons and Porter Utility Needles were very handy to use while stitching with the monofilament and, of course, with the perle cotton.
With the monofilament thread, I did double my thread as Kjerste instructs. Beginning at one side of the frame, take a stitch through the first hole on the front of the frame. Continue through the layers to the back of the frame. Pull the stitch through to the back and take another stitch, very close to the one just exiting the back, and push through to the same hole in the front. Take a stitch with your needle and thread through the next hole and to the back. Again place your needle close to where you exited on the back and push through to the front, coming through the same hole. Repeat this process. You will be stitching through each hole and also have a thread visible on the front in the spaces between the holes.
Once you have finished stitching, simply remove the basting stitches with a seam ripper or a nice pair small embroidery scissors! And you are all finished!
The instructions for both patterns are excellent! I don't think you will have any trouble! You can also find great YouTube tutorials for stitching as well as designing your own pattern!